Seasonal Sushi Specialties

Spring and Early Summer

Thanks to improved refrigeration and transportation, fish and other seafood from around the world can be obtained. Over the years, this has had a subtle effect on sushi dining. As the Kikuyoshi chef explains, the challenge is in knowing how to subtly modify the preparation of seafood according to season and place of origin.

Aka-gai (ark shell)
Available throughout the year from various waters, but most delicious when eaten in April and May. The best aka-gai comes from Sendai, in northern Japan, but after these waters are closed to fishing, the prize catch moves to the waters off Ehime Prefecture in western Japan.

Kasugo
Sea bream fry caught off the coast of Choshi in eastern Japan. Best eaten in April and May. As with shad, kasugo is prepared with salt and vinegar.

Anago (conger eel)
The highest quality anago, key to identifying the best sushi restaurants, comes from the waters of Haneda on Tokyo Bay. The best season for this delicacy in Tokyo is during the rainy season of June and July. Kikuyoshi boils its anago and roasts them lightly just before serving to provide texture and softness. This is one of the very rare nigiri-sushi whose neta is served warm.

Aori-ika (aori squid)
Two types of squid are used in sushi, black and aori. The best season for the superior aori starts after the vernal equinox (March 21). Its flesh is thick but soft and has a distinctively sweet flavor. The sparkling transparency of aori delivered live to sushi restaurants adds a mysterious beauty to the eating experience.

Shako (squilla)
These crustaceans, gathered in May and June, are prized as a delicacy for the orange-colored eggs they carry. Traditionally, fishermen have simply boiled squillas and broken off their shells.

Kuruma-ebi (shrimp)
Experts say the best shrimp for sushi are the 6-inch prawns caught off the coast of Chiba Prefecture in the waters of Futtsu east of Tokyo. The prawns must be fresh when boiled. Boiling a dead prawn leaves the tell-tale sign of a blackened tail.

Hoshi-garei (star flatfish) Fukko (two-year perch) Shima-aji (striped saurel)

Aori Squid

Shrimp

Octopus

Awabi (abalone)
In the traditional Edomae style, abalone is salted and steamed, but raw abalone is also popular. At Kikuyoshi, it is served both ways. For salting and steaming, females (biwa abalone) from the Ohara region of Chiba east of Tokyo are the best. Raw black and blue abalone (male abalone) from the same region win praise. The two types differ by texture.

Tori-gai (cockles)
Most clams and shells are best during the winter months, but cockles and abalone are exceptions. Japanese enjoy these edible cockles for their softness and sweetness.

Fukko (two-year perch)
Perch goes through several name changes as it matures: seigo, fukko, and finally suzuki, often translated as sea bass. Two-year perch tastes best in the summer, when it has appropriately fattened. In the Tokyo area, the best fukko comes from the Joban Coast in northeastern Japan and is prized for its texture when served fresh.

Shima-aji (striped saurel)
Lauded by some as tasting even better than expensive flatfish like hirame. Natural striped saurel has become increasingly rare. After this fish is cooked and cooked, its flesh is left to sit for awhile to soften.

Hoshi-garei (star flatfish)
Bearing characteristic spots on both sides, the star flatfish stands at the apex of the flatfish world. With its dense, meaty texture, hoshi-garei is preferred by many for its taste and flavor, said to beat even that of the prized sea bream in springtime.

Tako (octopus)
Octopus from the waters of Miura Peninsula, southwest of Tokyo, is boiled and softened using a special method. May through September is the best time to enjoy this delicacy. First-class restaurants use only Japanese octopus; imported varieties are easily distinguished by the whitening of their suction cups when boiled.