2004 Autumn - Zazen - The Shinto Shrine - Tea Ceremony
Quintessential Kyoto — A Visit to the Roots of Green Tea
Explore the Way of Tea with our esteemed guide
photography by Noboru Morikawa
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Sen Sooku, Tea master
Born in 1975, he's the eldest son in the Mushakouji Senke Tea School and a direct descendant of Sen-no-Rikyu, founder of the Way of Tea. Well versed in Japanese art and Buddhism, he teaches Japanese art history and the Way of Tea at Meiji Gakuin University. |
Chanoyu (the Way of Tea) represents the quintessence of Japanese culture and Zen philosophy. By participating in a tea ceremony, or visiting a temple closely associated with the tea ceremony, you'll become acquainted with the spirit of Japan. Our guide is Sen Sooku, hereditary successor to the Mushakoji Senke Tea School and direct descendent of the founding Grand Master, Sen-no-Rikyu.
An authentic tea ceremony takes place in a tearoom where a hanging scroll and arranged flowers adorn an alcove; tea utensils are waiting. But Sen Sooku says, "You can call any gathering a tea ceremony as long as there are guests and matcha." Matcha is a powdered form of green tea leaves ground by a millstone. Hot water is added to the powdered tea in a vessel and whisked rapidly. It is rich in vitamin C and minerals. Matcha is made from the choicest hand-picked leaves, carefully ground into extremely fine powder. Since only 45 grams of powdered tea can be made with a millstone in an hour, it's truly an extravagant drink. The tea leaves are actually imbibed, and the insoluble ingredients are absorbed by the body.
Two types of matcha are used: usucha (thin tea) and koicha (thick tea). Usucha is slightly weaker and more common. Koicha, made from the buds of old tea plants, is much stronger and thicker.
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Served in every tea ceremony, usucha (with a slightly bitter, astringent taste) is made from buds of the choicest tea leaves of young trees.
Tea bowl: egohon from Koguryo |
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Koicha is made from less astringent tea leaves of the finest quality; it forms the consistency of thick soup. In an authentic tea ceremony a meal called cha-kaiseki is served, followed by the koicha, then usucha.
Tea bowl: raku ware made by Ryonyu |
The exchange between host and guests is one of the pleasures of the ceremony. When serving, the host prepares each bowl of matcha with great care, taking into consideration the preferences and physical conditions of the guests. For example, if a guest is perspiring and looks thirsty, a host will make the matcha slightly weaker and in larger quantity. Tea bowls are carefully selected. Different from other types of tea, the way of serving matcha is the origin of counter-style service at a bar or other culinary establishment. It is indeed a highly customized and personalized form of service.
Why is proper etiquette important?
"In the tea ceremony," Sen Sooku explains, "we express our feelings of gratitude in silence. Action speaks louder than words." If a guest holds a tea bowl properly, it will relieve a host who selected a precious bowl for him. Proper etiquette indicates gratitude. Once the rules of tea are understood, a person will have no trouble if invited to a tea ceremony. When receiving matcha in a casual setting or in a Japanese residence, the rules can be modified.
 1. Remove your accessories and metal goods beforehand. Bow lightly when confections are presented. They'll be passed on a tray from one guest to another. The border of the tatami mat separates host from guests. |
 2. A guest takes out kaishi (special paper napkins), folds one from the bottom and places its coarse side on top of the others. Kaishi are handy for wrapping confections or wiping one's hands. |
 3. Transfer a confection to the folded kaishi paper with a wooden pick called kuromoji. If a kaishi paper is not available, place the confection directly on a plate. Be careful not to scrape the plate. |
 4. Return the confection tray so its front faces the host. Eat the confection using a kuromoji pick. Finish the confection before tea is served. Anything uneaten should be wrapped in kaishi and taken home. |
 5. When tea is served, bow to host and guests. Draw the bowl to you. Put it between you and your neighbor, saying "Excuse me for going ahead of you." Lift it in your right hand, and rest it in your left. |
 6. Handle the bowl carefully. When drinking, turn it clockwise 90 degrees to avoid having its front face you. Sip. The last sip is a slurp to drain the tea. Asking for seconds will delight the host. |
 7. After drinking the tea, the rim of the bowl where you sipped should be wiped with your fingers, then wipe your fingers with a kaishi paper. |
 8. The tea bowl should then be carefully examined. First, place the bowl on the tatami mat and admire it from right and left. |
 9. In viewing the bottom of the bowl, hold it securely with both hands and turn it over. It is more stable if you rest your elbows on both knees. |
 10. Return the bowl to the original position and bow. |
Enjoy tea at a casual Japanese-style cafe
Toraya Karyo Kyoto Shop
Renowned as a purveyor of Japanese confections to the imperial household for centuries, Toraya's cafe is close to the Kyoto Imperial Palace in a quiet residential quarter. Visitors can appreciate a variety of beautifully crafted sweets only available such as seasonal namagashi (traditional Japanese-style confections) served with matcha (914 yen) and kuzukiri (1,260 yen), or fiber-rich jellied noodles made from kudzu starch and old-style Japanese sugar. Open 10 AM - 6 PM March - November, 10 - 5:30 December - February; closed December 29 through January 1.
Karasuma-nishi-iru, Ichijo-dori, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
075-441-3113 / www.toraya-group.co.jp/main.html
Ippodo Tea Room Kaboku
This tearoom was established in 1995 so guests could enjoy the taste of authentic tea. Guests choose their favorite tea leaves among sencha (most common type of leaf tea), gyokuro (top-grade leaf tea), hojicha (brown roasted tea), and other types. They prepare it by themselves and enjoy it with Japanese confections. The fine selection of tea leaves is just what one would expect of a well-established tea shop. The sencha in the photo is 368 yen. Open daily 11 AM - 5 PM (sales until 7 PM weekdays and Saturdays, until 6 on Sundays and national holidays).
Teramachi-dori Nijo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
075-211-3421 / www.ippodo-tea.co.jp
Tawarayayoshitomi Karasuma-ten
Established 250 years ago, this shop has a long history of supplying confections to the Kyoto Imperial Palace. The Karasuma shop located near the main store has a Kyoto-style confectionery museum, where visitors can actually touch crafted confections and other types of Japanese sweets. At a tea lounge called Shounken visitors can experience the ryurei-style (Western seating) tea ceremony accompanied by seasonal confections. The matcha course at left is 500 yen. Open 9 AM - 7 PM, closed Wednesdays.
Kamidachiuri-agaru, Karasuma-dori, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
075-432-3101 / www.kyogashi.co.jp
Articles from the 2004 AUTUMN issue:
Articles from the 2004 AUTUMN issue:
Kateigaho International Edition Issues:
2005 SUMMER - 2005 SPRING - 2005 WINTER
2004 AUTUMN - 2004 SUMMER - 2004 SPRING - 2004 WINTER
2003 AUTUMN - INAUGURAL ISSUE
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