Kimono Chic for Men: Wear It Your Way

photography by Miyabi Tanaka

When a man dons a kimono he will feel masterly, perhaps infused with the samurai spirit to realize his fullest potential. We recently invited two leading figures in the Japanese fashion industry to discuss the concept of kimono for men and what makes the wearer iki (stylish). Komei Motoji (left in the photo) espouses traditional Japanese attire while Yo Shitara (right) sells Western wear.

Komei Motoji, President of Ginza Motoji Co., Ltd.
Born on Amami Oshima Island, Motoji founded his company in Tokyo at age 29. For 25 years he has distinguished it from traditional kimono shops by his selection of merchandise and sales approach. He has authored the book Gentlemen, Let's Start Kimono Life.

Yo Shitara, President of BEAMS
Born in Tokyo, Shitara was one of the founders of BEAMS, the "select shop" pioneer selling imported and original-brand clothes, variety goods, and furniture. It now boasts 80 outlets nationwide.

In greeting Yo Shitara, Komei Motoji remarked, "Wow, sporting a kimono under a matching haori (short jacket)—you're looking smart." Shitara answered, "I'm just a beginner! I'd really like to learn more about kimono for men." And the two sat down to examine the topic that intrigues them both.

Motoji: Both the Internet and several books offer a wealth of information for men setting out to buy their first kimono.

Shitara: Maybe, but I think one still finds the kimono shop rather forbidding.

Motoji: That's true, but the industry is starting to change. Shops are trying to create an atmosphere where customers can drop in and leave as casually as they like. Look for a shop with a great selection and male sales attendants actually wearing kimono. If an attendant doesn't wear a kimono himself, how can he give advice? And most of us feel out of place in a shop dominated by women's kimono.

Shitara: I've always worn kimono at New Year's, but now I'm fascinated by the image of stylish kimono-clad men, the kind of men who might keep a pochi-bukuro (a small envelope used to present a gift of cash) deep inside a kimono sleeve.

Motoji: You need more opportunities to wear kimono, Mr. Shitara! Wear it without worrying what others think and in no time it will begin to feel natural. You will have made kimono your own.

Shitara: Making it your own—that means bending a few rules because you have your own style, right? I'd love to do that.

Motoji: You can wear them anywhere, anytime. It'll be even easier if you and your wife both wear kimono when you go out. In fact, it's rather nice to see a couple dressed that way.

Shitara: How about monthly kimono day at work? I should start it at my company.

Motoji: Good idea. There's a fine line between being stylish and outlandish. For a man to be stylish, he must first find his own way of putting things together.

Shitara: What's your idea of "kimono smart"?

Motoji: Think of the ambience of a place where you're going to wear kimono. Say you want to look sharp but playful because you intend to have a good time. Try out the sumo wrestler's gait—walking with your sandal straps barely hooked around your toes. It's a bit of play-acting, something you'll do because you're in the mood for it. It'll wear you out if you walk that way regularly, though. Then on special occasions, I put on the haori (short coat) and hakama (pleated, wide trousers). The second I put on hakama, my sense of being a man is heightened. I feel braced up like I'm wearing armor.

Shitara: I know what you mean. It fills you with the spirit of bushido (the way of the samurai). It invigorates you. By the way, do you have practical tips on how to wear kimono?

Motoji: Get the waist right. When you tie your kaku-obi (sash) around your waist, be sure to push it up a bit in the back and pull it down below your belly in the front. Also, always have your measurements taken properly. That'll ensure a sharp look. We recommend coming in for fitting.

Shitara: Just like having a suit made.

Motoji: Yes. There's really nothing difficult about wearing a kimono. Think of a haori as a jacket, a kimono as a shirt, the haori string as a necktie.

Shitara: Most of us feel a little intimidated when it comes to kimono, but putting it like that will certainly loosen me up.

Motoji: Come to my shops anytime.

Shitara: I'll definitely drop by soon. What if I get totally hooked? I may end up haunting your place.

Motoji: Good. We men tend to develop a mania for what we like, don't we? We should trade ideas about Japanese and Western clothing. We may hit on something totally new—you never know.

kimono fashion Gallery Izumi by Ginza Motoji
The company's newest shop is Gallery Izumi. It focuses on kimono for the new millennium but teaches about traditional kimono too, making this a hot spot for sharing Japanese culture.
4-8-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5524-0071
Open 11 AM to 7 PM
year-round

Articles from the 2004 SUMMER issue:

Kateigaho International Edition Issues:

2005 SUMMER - 2005 SPRING - 2005 WINTER

2004 AUTUMN - 2004 SUMMER - 2004 SPRING - 2004 WINTER

2003 AUTUMN - INAUGURAL ISSUE