Antique Shops in Tokyo & Kyoto

Kurofune John Adair, Jr. opened Kurofune Antiques in 1978. His three floors feature arguably the widest range of fine and unusual tansu in Tokyo. He offers pieces in as close to original condition as possible, keeping restoration to an absolute minimum. Master craftsmen see that locks work and have keys and that drawers slide smoothly; years of patination is coaxed forth under Adair's watchful eyes (and sometimes hands). Expect to pay for quality.

7-7-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-3479-1552 / Fax 03-3479-0719 Open 10 AM to 6 PM, including most Japanese holidays Closed Sundays

Tessaido The shop is brimming with Ko-Imari of every imaginable size and pattern. While most antique shops sell Ko-Imari tableware in sets of five, Tessaido happily sells individual pieces to accommodate customers' needs. As owner Hiroko Kidoh explains, "Characteristically, all Ko-Imari is crafted in standardized sizes. All teacups and 7-sun plates, for example, are a specific size. Therefore I personally find mixing and matching individual pieces with different patterns a more enjoyable way to collect Ko-Imari." Tessaido's collection has more than 50 different patterns of 7-sun plates alone. Motifs include cherry blossoms, court carriages, and floral scroll brocades.

Yamato-oji, Furumonzen-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Tel. 075-531-2829 Open 10 AM to 6 PM, 7 days a week

Tsukuda Quite the chef himself, the owner Mr. Tsukuda feels that Ko-Imari white porcelain presents cuisine at its best. He sees in it the alluring "philosophy of imperfection." He says, "Prices of antiques don't define their value. Finding what you're looking for is the biggest pleasure. There are pieces priced at a million yen that I find boring and pieces priced at 10,000 yen that thrill me." He stocks primarily Ko-Imari white porcelain and cobalt-underglaze porcelain with simple patterns. Takeyamachi Higashi-iru, Teramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto Tel. 075-231-3812 Open Saturdays 1 to 6 PM, other days by appointment

Uruwashiya Specializing in late-Edo- through early-Showa-period antique lacquer, Uruwashiya's collection of good-condition wares for everyday use is a rare find. With an extraordinary sensibility, owner Akemi Horiuchi displays an array of antique urushi perfect for contemporary dining. Many pieces are local Kyo-shikki (Kyoto lacquerware), characteristically thin and delicate yet carefully crafted and therefore strong. They are designed with crisp rims and decorative motifs that reflect a conscious respect for the inherent beauty of lacquerware's negative spaces. Fuyacho higashi-iru, Marutamachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto Tel. 075-212-0043 / Fax 075-212-0043 Open 11 AM to 6:30 PM, Closed Tuesdays

Uragami Sokyu-Do Uragami has one of the world's leading collections of Hokusai sketchbooks. If any artist gave a face to everyday Japan, it was Hokusai in his manga, or "rough sketches." These brilliantly observed, often comic woodcuts and drawings are a fascinating record not only of Edo-period life but also of the curiosity and genius of Hokusai himself. Uragami frames manga as a single image or diptych or triptych. He also offers entire volumes. 3F, 3-6-9 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-3271-3931 / Fax 03-3271-3784 Open 10 AM to 6 PM Closed Sundays and holidays

Takashi Yanagi Takashi Yanagi is the store to visit if you seriously want a good folding screen. Yanagi collects "pieces in good condition and featuring unique motifs and compositions." He focuses on late 16th-century byobu, which he says are particularly valuable. Few are left today; many feature unique coloring and dynamic compositions. They start at 10 million yen. Their quality is breathtaking. The shop also has scrolls, Buddhist art, and ceramics.

Nishino-machi 195 Shinmonzen-agaru Nawate-dori, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Tel. 075-551-1284 / Fax 075-525-0370 Open 9 AM to 6 PM (preferably by appointment), closed Sundays

Sairaku-Do Owner Kuniko Nishi features original and old, well-preserved ukiyo-e prints (many go to museums). She also stocks hand-carved, hand-printed reproductions that make affordable souvenirs starting at 7,000 yen. Her practical advice for enjoying ukiyo-e: "High-priced, old prints fade with ongoing exposure to light, even indoors. Reproductions and already-faded prints are great because you don't have to worry about how they are displayed."

1-18-11 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-3833-0024 / Fax 03-3832-0024 Open 10:30 AM to 5:30 PM Closed weekends, holidays

Akariya The shop displays high-quality period tansu and ceramics. Kogire are framed on the wall. On request, the owner will bring forth more kogire, and take interested customers to Akariya 2 to see Meiji and later textiles.

4-8-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-3465-5578 / Fax 03-3465-5459 Open 11 AM to 7 PM, closed Sundays, holidays

Ohno Oriental Art Galleries Marue Ohno offers an array of rare Imari, Nabeshima, Kakiemon, and Kutani ceramics (many are lent to museums), and Chinese and Korean porcelains as well. Owner Banri Ohno travels the world to study and procure ceramics, always seeking "a new discovery." He is currently also acting director of Tokyo Bijutsu (art) Club. Prices for his ceramics average about 1 million yen, although many attractive pieces are available for less. 2-31-23 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-3811-4365 Fax 03-3818-3770 Open 10 AM to 6:30 PM, closed weekends and holidays

Tessai-Do Specializing in hanging scrolls, Tessai-Do has 3,000 paintings and calligraphic works from the early Edo through Showa periods. Third-generation owner Masatsugu Kawasaki is particularly interested in Tomioka Tessai (hence the shop name) and has about 70 of his works. For smaller budgets there are hanging scrolls starting at around 10,000 yen and painting and calligraphy fragments from 3,000 yen. Kawasaki publishes a catalog, which he mails overseas.

Yamato-oji, Furumonzen-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Tel. & Fax 075-531-5403 Open 9 AM to 6 PM Closed 18th 19th, 28th, 29th of each month

Morita Morita specializes in dyed textiles, which make up more than half of the shop's merchandise. Located in Tokyo's fashion center, Aoyama, Morita's extensive collection of small textile fragments is a valuable resource for foreign fashion designers who frequent the shop in search of ideas for their work. Owner Tadashi Morita collects kimono, furoshiki (Japanese wrapping cloths), theatrical costumes, and more from homes and temples throughout the country. He has many artistically worthy old pieces handcrafted from hemp and cotton by common folk.

5-12-2 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-3407-4466 / Fax 03-3407-4467 Open 10 AM to 7 PM daily

Konjaku Nishimura Nishimura recommends Taisho and early Showa-period kimono, which are moderately priced and in excellent condition. In addition to wearable kimono, Konjaku also features a collection of art-quality, antique textile fragments.

36 Benzaiten-cho, Sanjo-sagaru, Yamato-oji, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Tel. 075-561-1568 / Fax 075-561-1569 Open 10 AM to 7 PM Closed Wednesdays

Ishii Collection This may be Tokyo's smallest antique shop (the size of a big closet) with the highest turnover (new items every week). Tansu with original patina are the heart of the business but Hiromi Ishii finds innovative new uses for old things. He takes elements such as katagami (stencils) and fashions them into andon lamps, or makes shoji frames into tabletops. These andon (31,500 yen to 34,650 yen) with forged-iron frameworks are hits with customers. Ishii points out that only about 20 people in Japan still make hand-cut fabric stencils and, like desirable tansu, old ones are disappearing fast. His advice is simple: Don't wait to collect.

6-3-14 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel. & Fax: 03-3486-6683 Open 11:30 AM to 7:30 PM Closed Tuesdays

Ezoshi Ezoshi offers Japanese prints ranging from early Edo-period ukiyo-e to Shin Hanga (new print) movement works. In the early 19th century, Japan combined a respect for individualism and renewed appreciation of traditional arts. These two elements are reflected in the art of hanga, or Japanese print. Whereas ukiyo-e printmaking had been a division of labor by artist, carver, and printer, hanga artists expressed their individualism by performing all of the steps of the process themselves. Other artists were collaborating more closely with carvers and printers, aspiring to exhibit greater creativity and artistic qualities. The shop displays prints with descriptions and prices. 253 Umemoto-cho, Shinmonzen-dori, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Tel. 075-551-9137 / Fax 075-551-3926 Open 10 AM to 6 PM, 7 days a week

Kawasaki Fine Arts Kawasaki separates large six-panel folding screens—normally too expensive to consider owning—into two panels and prices them from 300,000 yen. The shop specializes in moderately priced pieces by unknown artists and smaller folding screens that can easily be displayed in home interiors. Because of regular business with foreign collectors and dealers, descriptions of all items are available in English. The shop generally has about 50 folding screens in stock, along with hanging scrolls, ukiyo-e prints, and wares in ceramic, wood, and lacquer—all harmoniously displayed. 259 Umemoto-cho, Shinmonzen-dori, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Tel. 075-541-8785 / Fax 075-551-9258 Open 10 AM to 6 PM

Gallery Sobian Sobian occupies the upper floors of the same building in which the owner's brother has Kawasaki Fine Arts on the first floor. By merging the two spaces the brothers have a spacious gallery. Sobian's collection of 100 folding screens ranges in price from 100,000 yen to 10 million yen. Hanging scrolls start at 100,000 yen. The shop also has a distinctive collection of Meiji-period crafts including shippoyaki (cloisonne ware), copperware, and metalwork, as well as original works by ceramic artists of note. The third floor features period furniture and prints, and is a trove for interior decorating. Gallery hours are the same for both businesses.

259 Umemoto-cho, Shinmonzen-dori, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Tel. 075-541-8786 / Fax 075-541-9677

Antiques Hasebeya Upon opening its doors 30 years ago, Hasebeya made "Living Art" its motto, specializing in stunning period tansu. High quality and originality are the standards upon which the shop bases its selections. In principle, repairs are restricted to a minimum, respecting the original form and features of each piece as well as the patina acquired through long years of use. In addition to tansu, the shop offers an array of rare ceramics and lacquerware. The second floor is reserved for Muromachi- and Momoyama-period lacquerware, wicker trunks, Buddhist art, and higher-priced tansu. 1-7-7 Azabu-juban, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-5775-1308 / Fax 03-5775-1339 Open 10 AM to 7 PM, 7 days a week

Antiques Nishikawa Nishikawa offers an array of Ko (or "Old") Imari porcelains ranging from reasonably priced wares for everyday use to high-priced pieces for display. It has naive, early Edo-period sometsuke (cobalt blue underglaze) Ko-Imari pieces as well. The shop sees many foreign customers, who buy pieces of the same decorative patterns in sets. Ko-Imari mixes well with Western tableware, particularly European antique ceramics. Customers from countries all over the world have shown the shop owners some of the many ways in which Ko-Imari can be enjoyed. 2-20-14 Azabu-juban, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel. & Fax 03-3456-1023 Open 11 AM to 7 PM Closed Tuesdays

Articles from the 2004 SPRING issue:

• Spring Sake
• Architectural Alchemy: Toshiko Mori - H-Sang Seung - Kengo Kuma - Yung Ho Chang
• Hello Kitty - The Empress of Cute: Hello Kitty at 30 - Sanrio Puroland
• Japanese Antiques: Tansu Chests - Porcelain & Lacquerware - Woodblock Prints, Folding Screens & Scrolls - Textiles & Kimono - Antique Shops in Tokyo & Kyoto
• Tokyo Street Fashion

Kateigaho International Edition Issues:

2005 SUMMER - 2005 SPRING - 2005 WINTER

2004 AUTUMN - 2004 SUMMER - 2004 SPRING - 2004 WINTER

2003 AUTUMN - INAUGURAL ISSUE