Kimono Patterns―10
Sakana (Fish): A lucky charm bearing wishes for fertility

From ancient times, beautiful artistic patterns on kimono have reflected the Japanese people’s delicate senses towards the changing seasons and how social conventions in the country have changed through its history.
This weekly series will take a look at various types of kimono patterns, from those that can be worn year-round to those for special occasions, with a special focus on summer-themed patterns. We will explore the meanings behind the designs as well as insights into styling a kimono attire.

This week, let us introduce to you three kinds of auspicious patterns of nature, animals and plants.

The stencil dyeing used on this carp pattern portrays the fish energetically swimming up a waterfall.

In Chinese, the word “fish” (“Yú”) is pronounced the same as another word meaning “to be in excess of”. Hence, the fish pattern has long been considered a symbol of happiness and wealth. The pattern is also seen as a lucky charm representing fertility, as fish bear many eggs. In Japan, some of the treasures stored in Shosoin and accessories from the Heian period (794-1185) have patterns of fish traveling around the Horai Island. Popular fish made into patterns include carp, sweetfish, sea bream, goldfish, pufferfish, crab and prawn.

>Shosoin is a treasure house at Todaiji in Nara, a temple built in the Nara period (710-794). It was used as a storage space for the royal court.
>Hōrai Island is one of the legendary lands in the ancient Chinese mythology where sen-nin (a unworldly immortal believed to have miraculous powers) is said to have lived.

Uo-mon (Fish pattern)
Uo-mon is a collective term for fish patterns. They can be used on their own but in many cases, they are designed alongside sea-related motifs such as waves and seaweeds. Sougyo-mon, which depicts two fish facing each other, is one of the traditional fish patterns. The photo shows a homongi (formal kimono) pattern of a school of fish swimming in the sea.

Koi (Carp)
In China, carps have been coveted from ancient times as they were thought to later become a dragon if they managed to swim up the rapid river stream. Carps are often shown swimming energetically in rough waters. Some carp patterns include “namima no koi” (carps in the waves), “koi no taki-nobori” (carps swimming up waterfalls) and “koi-zukushi” (collection of carps).

The kimono with traditional carp patterns matches well with an indigo-dyed obi in this casual style.

Ariso-mon
Ariso-mon depicts carps dancing among the waves. It is a well-known pattern often seen on meibutsu-gire and is said to be an artwork originally born during the Ming dynasty in China. Patterns of the crashing waves with rocks and birds are also called ariso-mon, while patterns with rocks and pine trees (“matsu”) are called arisomatsu-mon.

>In the world of Japanese tea ceremony, meibutsu refers to tea ceremony items selected by masters such as Sen no Rikyu, the leading figure who established the wabi-cha style in the Way of Tea. Meibutsu-gire is a cloth used alongside such tea ceremony tools and bowls.

Medaka (Killifish)
Medaka is the smallest freshwater fish living in Japan. It rarely appears on its own in patterns and is usually accompanied with water and aquatic plants as a part of waterside scenery patterns. Today, medaka is used as a motif for spring on casual, dyed obi. The photo shows a summer obi with artworks of medaka and reeds.

<Recommended season for wearing this kimono pattern>
All year round, spring and summer

Kaku to kisetsu ga hitome de wakaru―Kimono no mon-yo
(Kimono Patterns―A guide to their rank and seasons )
Supervised by Kenzo Fujii
(Sekai Bunka Publishing, in Japanese)

Featuring over 300 kimono patterns including the ones introduced in this story, the book helps readers learn about the history and meanings of kimono patterns through a rich variety of photos. Kimono and obi can be categorized into kaku (rank) depending on its material and patterns, and different occasions call for combinations of kimono and obi of the appropriate ranks. A practical and entertaining guide for all kimono lovers,  the book gives useful tips on common confusions related to the ranks and seasonal categorizations of patterns, as well as numerous kimono styling examples.

Available in Japan through Amazon and other online bookstores here. The book can also be ordered at bookstore counters in Japan with no shipping charges (the service may be unavailable at some stores).