Kimono Patterns―8
Gakki (Musical Instruments): Designed to make wishes come true

From ancient times, beautiful artistic patterns on kimono have reflected the Japanese people’s delicate senses towards the changing seasons and how social conventions in the country have changed through its history.
This weekly series will take a look at various types of kimono patterns, from those that can be worn year-round to those for special occasions, with a special focus on summer-themed patterns. We will explore the meanings behind the designs as well as insights into styling a kimono attire.

This week, let’s take a look at the splendid collection of three “lucky charm” patterns.

Musical instruments such as taiko (drum), koto (Japanese harp), fue (Japanese flute) make beautiful, echoing sounds. This, along with the homophonic nature of the Japanese verb“to sound”and“to achieve” (both pronounced “naru” ), led people to believe that musical instruments can serve as a medium to convey wishes to gods, making them popular motifs for drawings and designs. This is why pictures of musical instruments can often be seen on costumes for Noh and other arts.

Koto pattern on an obi sash

In addition, mastering these instruments were considered a noble art for the aristocrats as they were used to perform the elegant music of the dynastic age. Many of these instruments were made into patterns to represent hopes to further hone the players’ musical techniques.

Eye-pleasing instruments with unique shapes are often made into patterns. Many of them were used to perform gagaku, classic Japanese music performed at the Imperial Court.

Koto (Japanese harp)
The elegant slim shapes of harps used to perform gagaku were made into patterns and are also seen on kimono and obi today (above photo). Kotoji, the beautifully curved parts used to adjust the pitch of the harp sound, is also often used as a standalone pattern.

Tsuzumi (Japanese hand drum)
Tsuzumi is used for various classic Japanese music, such as the accompanying music for shirabyoshi dance (  and Noh plays. It is also one of the most popular instruments for patterns, with its elegant, waist-like curve expressed through dyes and weaves on kimono and obi. Leather parts on the edges and shirabe-o (strings tied onto drums to tune the sounds) are often skillfully illustrated, with braided strings sometimes designed to add extra color to the pattern.

Hana-tsuzumi mon refers to sumptuous patterns with flowers and decorative strings added to the drum motif.

Shou (Japanese free-reed wind instrument)
Shou is a free-reed instrument used in gagaku performances. Introduced to Japan around the Nara period, the instrument is also called “houshou”, named after its resemblance to hou-ou (phoenix) resting with its wings folded upright. The instrument has seventeen thin bamboo stems combined to make a cylindrical shape. The stems have small air holes, or “hou”, on the sides for the player to blow in and out to make sounds. The unique shapes of the bamboo stems are depicted in patterns. The photo shows a shou pattern expressed in embroidery.

Gakki-zukushi (Collection of instruments)
Gakki-zukushi has various musical instruments scattered across the design. Popular motifs like fue, koto and biwa (Japanese lute) are often used in this pattern. Each instrument became popular as drawings for its unique shapes after the Muromachi period (1336-1573), and eventually developed into standalone patterns.

【Recommended season for wearing this kimono pattern】
All year round

Kaku to kisetsu ga hitome de wakaru―Kimono no mon-yo
(Kimono Patterns―A guide to their rank and seasons )
Supervised by Kenzo Fujii
(Sekai Bunka Publishing, in Japanese)

Featuring over 300 kimono patterns including the ones introduced in this story, the book helps readers learn about the history and meanings of kimono patterns through a rich variety of photos. Kimono and obi can be categorized into kaku (rank) depending on its material and patterns, and different occasions call for combinations of kimono and obi of the appropriate ranks. A practical and entertaining guide for all kimono lovers,  the book gives useful tips on common confusions related to the ranks and seasonal categorizations of patterns, as well as numerous kimono styling examples.

Available in Japan through Amazon and other online bookstores here. The book can also be ordered at bookstore counters in Japan with no shipping charges (the service may be unavailable at some stores).